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Early American Cocktails Part 5
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The Epicure’s Almanac, by Benson E. Hill, Esq.
The Epicure’s Almanac, by Benson E. Hill, Esq.
Bartender’s Corner
by Dr. Ron A. Ñejo
When studying the history of a country, some scholars undoubtedly head to the libraries, to read and re- read manuscripts of yesteryear. I, on the other hand, prefer to start by exploring the culinary and mixological legacy of the bygone eras: I head to the bars and pubs!
Early colonial America was a constantly changing landscape. The recipes for their contemporary cookery and drinkery are a window into that time.
Join me as I journey through the best of what has survived, as I explore the drinks that forged and survived the growth of the American nation.
-Dr. Ron A. Ñejo
Early American Rum Cocktails #5: Punch á la Ford
(An excerpt from The Epicure’s Almanac, by Benson E. Hill, Esq.)
The late General Ford, who for many years was the commanding engineer at Dover, kept a most hospitable board, and used to make punch on a large scale, after the following method:
He would select three dozen of lemons, the coats of which were smooth, and whose rinds were not too thin ; these he would peel with a sharp knife into a large ear then vessel, taking care that none of the rind should be detached but that portion in which the cells are placed, containing the essential oil; when he had completed the first part of the process, he added two pounds of lump-sugar, and stirred the peel and sugar together with an oar-shaped piece of wood, for nearly half an hour, thereby extracting a greater quantity of the essential oil. Boiling water was next poured into the vessel, and the whole well stirred, until the sugar was completely dissolved.
The lemons were then cut and squeezed, the juice strained from the kernels; these were placed in a separate jug, and boiling water poured upon them, the general being aware that the pips were enveloped in a thick mucilage, full of flavor; half the lemon juice was now thrown in; and as soon as the kernels were free from their transparent coating, their liquor was strained and added.
The sherbet was now tasted; more acid or more sugar applied as required, and care taken not to render the lemonade too watery. “Rich of the fruit, and plenty of sweetness,” was the general’s maxim. The sherbet was then measured, and to ever y three quarts a pint of Cognac brandy and a pint of old Jamaica rum were allotted, the spirit being well stirred as poured in; bottling immediately followed, and, when completed, the beverage was kept in a cold cellar, or tank, till required. At the general’s table I have frequently drunk punch thus made, more than six months old; and found it much improved by time and a cool atmosphere.