Until the Bitter End - June 2023

Science has classified flavors into five main groups, as perceived by our tongues.  These groups are: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and -most recently- Umami.

Most foods and beverages have a combination of flavoring compounds that give them their particular “footprint,” that can encompass several of these flavor groups.  This new series is devoted to the Bitter flavor, and to its impact on our everyday life.

Evolutionary scientists suggest that the ability to detect bitterness evolved as a way to protect us from toxic plants and other substances, which often taste bitter. Although it gets a bad rap, bitterness can be used to create well-rounded and desirable flavor palates.  You may not be aware of it, but bitterness is present in many of our favorite foods including chocolate, coffee, wine and barrel-aged spirits.

What does the word “Bitter” mean?

Merriam-Webster dictionary defines the word bitter (when used as an adjective) as: being, inducing, or marked by the one of the five basic taste sensations that is peculiarly acrid, astringent, and often disagreeable and characteristic of citrus peels, unsweetened cocoa, black coffee, mature leafy greens (such as kale or mustard), or ale.  The origin of the word goes back to Middle English, from Old English biter, going back to Germanic *bitra- (whence Old Saxon & Old High German bittar “acrid-tasting,” Old Norse bitr “biting, sharp”) and *baitra- (whence Gothic baitrs “sharp-tasting”), derivatives from the base of *bītan- “to bite.”

How Does “Bitter” Actually Taste?

Bitterness is neither salty nor sour, but may at times accompany these flavor sensations. Many people are innately opposed to bitter flavors, but a liking for it can and is acquired. Compounds that have an alkaline pH, such as baking soda, often have a bitter flavor.

Scientific research has found that some humans are more sensitive to bitter flavors than others.1 These individuals are referred to as “supertasters” and are often of Asian, African, or South American descent. Being a supertaster may explain why some individuals find the flavor of vegetables highly disagreeable. Most vegetables contain at least some bitterness, especially when raw.

Bitter Foods

Dark, leafy greens are well known for their bitter flavor.  Green leafy vegetables often increase in bitterness as they mature. For this reason, many people prefer tender young greens to their more mature -and bitter- counterparts. Bitter green vegetables include kale, dandelion greens and broccoli.

Cocoa is another food that is enjoyed for its bitter flavor. Pure cocoa has a distinct bitterness, which can be used to balance flavors like sweet or spicy in other foods. Adding sugar and cream to cocoa significantly reduces its bitterness, making it more palatable.

Likewise, black coffee can be quite bitter. Although sugar and cream can be added to reduce the bitterness, many grow to enjoy the sharp flavor of black coffee. The type of bean and the unique roasting method will also impact coffee’s level of bitterness.

Citrus peels are well known for its bitterness, most of which resides in the white pith. As with most bitter flavors, it can be undesirable on its own, but when combined with other flavor elements, it can provide dimension and balance.  Other fruits and vegetables that may provide bitter flavors may include grapefruit, bitter melon, mustard greens, and olives. Beverages such as tonic water, bitters, and mate tea are all also considered bitter. Before shying away from bitter ingredients in the future, explore how they can be combined with complimentary tastes to build a complex and enjoyable flavor profile.

Join us, as we explore the wonderful world of Bitter and Bitterness!

Scientific Name: Cinchona officinalis

Cinchona is a genus of flowering plants in the family Rubiaceae containing at least 23 species of trees and shrubs. All are native to the tropical Andean forests of western South America. A few species are reportedly naturalized in Central America, Jamaica, French Polynesia, Sulawesi, Saint Helena in the South Atlantic, and São Tomé and Príncipe off the coast of tropical Africa, and others have been cultivated in India and Java, where they have formed hybrids.

Cinchona has been historically sought after for its medicinal value, as the bark of several species yields quinine and other alkaloids. These were the only effective treatments against malaria during the height of European colonialism, which made them of great economic and political importance. Trees in the genus are also known as fever trees because of their anti-malarial properties.The birth of homeopathy was based on cinchona bark testing. The founder of homeopathy, Samuel Hahnemann, when translating William Cullen’s Materia medica, noticed Cullen had written that Peruvian bark was known to cure intermittent fevers.

[35] Hahnemann took daily a large, rather than homeopathic, dose of Peruvian bark. After two weeks, he said he felt malaria-like symptoms. This idea of “like cures like” was the starting point of his writings on homeopathy. (Source: https://www.wikipedia.com)

Did You Know That . . .

Cinchona is used for increasing appetite; promoting the release of digestive juices; and treating bloating, fullness, and other stomach problems. It is also used for blood vessel disorders including hemorrhoids, varicose veins, and leg cramps. Some people use cinchona for mild influenza, swine flu, the common cold, malaria, and fever. Other uses are for cancer, mouth and throat diseases, enlarged spleen, and muscle cramps.

Cinchona is also used in eye lotions to numb pain, kill germs, and as an astringent. Cinchona extract is also applied to the skin for hemorrhoids, ulcers, stimulating hair growth, and managing varicose veins.In foods, cinchona is used as a bitter flavoring in tonic water and alcoholic beverages.

(Source: https://www.webmd.com)

Featured Bitters Recipe: “Advanced” Bitters

In the January issue of this series, we covered a “beginner’s” version of Angostura Bitters.  By now you should be more familiar with the different botanical ingredients and with the different extraction methods, so we’re ready to look at a more “advanced” recipe:

  • 1 tsp. Gentian Root
  • 1/4 C. Cinchona Bark, chopped
  • 1/2 C. Whole Cloves
  • 1/4 C. Whole Cardamom
  • 6 to 8 Sticks of Cinnamon
  • 2 Tbsp. Whole Allspice Berries
  • 400 ml (approximately 13.5 oz.) Overproof White Rum or other Neutral Spirit
  • 2 to 4 C. of Water for final dilution

Place the gentian and cinchona in one jar and all spices in another. Divide the Everclear evenly between the jars. Seal and shake the jars, and test the scent every day or so. Allow the ingredients to infuse for about four to six days, checking for a balanced scent.

Filter the solids out when done and store bitters in a fresh dropper bottle. Use the water to dilute your bitters if it comes out overpowering.